In this article we’ll take a look at many of these different varieties, their history, and also points of appreciation.

Black Koi originated many years ago, according to the genealogy chart in Amano’s ‘Live Jewels – General Survey of Fancy Carp’, as a mutation from Asagi Magoi. The Karasugoi, a jet black carp, named after the crow (karasu), of course itself a jet black bird. The Karasugoi further mutated to bring us a whole line of black and white Koi including Kumonryu and Matuskawabake and thereafter many more modern varieties such as Kikokuryu, which we’ll look at in detail later.

The image below appears in the record book kept by Chuzo and Torakichi Kawakami, great grandfather and grandfather respectively of Tsuyoshi Kawakami of Torazo Koi Farm. The book records Koi which were of particular interest to the Kawakamis at the time, some parent Koi, some Koi they purchased, and some Koi owned by others. This image was made around 1920 and is the only black and white Koi that is recorded in the book, although many Ki Utsuri appear. No Shiro Bekko appear either.

Tani no yuki

The caption on the image says ‘Tani no yuki’ which translates as ‘Snow Valley’, a name which is quite self explanatory

SHIRO UTSURI

Let’s start by looking more closely at Shiro Utsuri, arguably the most commonly encountered black and white variety, and certainly the most advanced in terms of development.

Considered by many as the 4th Gosanke variety, alongside Kohaku, Sanke and Showa, since 2012 Shiro Utsuri has had its own show class at the All Japan Koi Show, separating it from Hi Utsuri and Ki Utsuri. In many other shows you will find Utsuri grouped with Showa, a recognition of their heritage. For several years Shiro Utsuri were judged in the Miyabi group with Kohaku, Sanke and Showa, however in 2019 they were moved back into the Sakura group, somewhat demonstrating that in reality, however refined they are as a variety, they still cannot challenge the big 3.

The first Shiro Utsuri are said to have come from Magoi lineage, created in 1925 by Kazuo Minemura in Mushigame Village, Yamakoshi. However, modern day Shiro Utsuri have benefitted significantly from the effort put into Showa and have developed out of Showa production hence the subtle variations we see between the style of sumi on Hi and Ki Utsuri compared to Shiro Utsuri, and the difference in the pectoral fins of Shiro Utsuri which typically exhibit motoguro, whereas Hi and Ki Utsuri pectoral fins are either solid coloured or striped.

Much of the modern development and history of Shiro Utsuri production can be attributed to Omosako Koi Farm, a name synonymous with the variety, however Takashi Omosako didn’t start breeding until 1980. Prior to that it was the late great Hiroji Sakai first found fame as a Shiro Utsuri breeder winning Grand Champion at the 1st All Chugoku Koi Show with Sakai Fish Farm bred Shiro Utsuri in 1978. The head judge at the show, Kunio Shinoda, wrote in Rinko magazine at the time, ‘The Shiro Utsuri stood above other Gosanke Koi with its thick pure white background. Although the completion of its sumi markings is still on its way to being perfect, there is no trace of hi markings on the body. Furthermore, the pattern of sumi markings, arranged from the head to the tail, gives the fish an elegant atmosphere. Among other male Koi, its plump body with sharp contrast of black and white is outstanding. If there is anything bad that can be said about this fish, its head is a little too narrow, and because of its elegance, it can’t be denied it is lacking in powerfulness.’

Grand Champion 1st Chugoku Koi Show – 1978 (Photo electronic Rinko magazine)

Sakai Fish Farm bred Shiro Utsuri would be the foundation of Shiro Utsuri production at Omosako Koi Farm starting with a fish which had won Best in Variety prize at the 1978 ZNA Koi Show. Shiro Utsuri are of course bred on many farms, invariably all will have an element of Omosako blood somewhere in the mix and, whilst excellent examples can be found at breeders throughout Japan, it cannot be denied that the best jumbo specimens are unquestionably produced by Omosako Koi Farm.

Many of the comments made by the judge back in 1978 remain the foundation of Shiro Utsuri appreciation nowadays and below we’ll take a look at some special examples which have graced the show stage over the last few years.

As we’re talking about Omosako Koi Farm it’s probably fitting to start with arguably their most famous and instantly recognisable of Shiro Utsuri, the Koi known as Musashi.

Omosako Shiro Utsuri – Musashi (courtesy Omosako Koi Farm)

Development photos of Musashi (courtesy Omosako Koi Farm)

Named after a Japanese battleship, Musashi was an incredibly important parent fish, as well as show winner. The development photos above showing her from the age of 3, 5, 6 and 7. According to Takashi Omosako from an early age her sumi quality and body shape were incredibly obvious factors, even if the sumi pattern and development were far from obvious at that age.

Looking at Musashi it’s not difficult to appreciate what makes it a very very special example of Shiro Utsuri. It used to be said that take away the red from a Showa and you have a good Shiro Utsuri, and although in some respects this holds true, it’s very simplistic, as is the similar example of take the red from a Sanke and you get a good Shiro Bekko. However, there are certainly aspects of the comparison to Showa appreciation that certainly apply to Shiro Utsuri and Musashi particularly. Starting from the head we have an interesting hachiware pattern splitting the head before the bright white break across the broad shoulders, frame either side with balanced motoguro in the pectoral fins. The large white area of the shoulders transitions into the solid black saddle in front of the dorsal fin before the pattern becomes more delicate as it works its way through the tail tube where an important white break appears before the tail. Without this break the heavy pattern would perhaps appear just a little too heavy, indeed for some this pattern is perhaps already too heavy for personal taste.

Whilst the quality of the white and the quality of the black are prerequisites for a quality Shiro Utsuri, the style in which the colours are presented on the body, and the entire style of the pattern they create, is somewhat more flexible.

Another example below from Omosako Koi Farm which gives a completely different impression to Musashi above, and many will undoubtedly find her subtlety more attractive. When differentiating sumi on Shiro Utsuri and Shiro Bekko (as well as on Showa and Sanke) the Utsuri and Showa sumi is often described as wrapping the body from underneath, whilst Bekko and Sanke sumi sits upon the Koi. On the example below we can perhaps see that somewhat clearer than on Musashi. If we look at the left hand side of the body we can see the solid area of sumi and it appears almost like fingers wrapping up around the body, very characteristic of Shiro Utsuri (and Showa) sumi, although the boundaries between the Shiro Utsuri and Bekko (and more so Showa and Sanke) seem to be forever blurred by an increasing number of examples.

Omosako Shiro Utsuri – Photo courtesy Omosako

Development of Omosako Shiro Utsuri – Photo courtesy Omosako

This example was displayed as part of Omosako Koi Farms ‘dream Koi’ exhibit at the 2013 All Japan Koi Show. Whilst looking on Omosako Koi Farm’s Facebook page for some examples I noted that I commented at the time ‘that is a dream Shiro Utsuri for sure’, I was not alone in admiration for the Koi. Whist we have big bold blocks of sumi on this Shiro Utsuri it is perhaps the white ground that dominates.

Omosako Shiro Utsuri, Dream Koi Exhibit, 2013 AJKS

Development of Omosako Shiro Utsuri, Dream Koi Exhibit, 2013 AJKS

Another Shiro Utsuri which was part of Omosako’s Dream Koi exhibit in 2013. A different bloodline and a different style, the solid blocks giving way to a much more intricate pattern, nonetheless the thick solid sumi contrast with significant amounts of white skin too.

Omosako Shiro Utsuri, Dream Koi Exhibit, 2013 AJKS

Development of Omosako Shiro Utsuri, Dream Koi Exhibit, 2013 AJKS

‘Orca’, Best in Variety at the 2015 All Japan Koi Show is another major show winner which went on to become a parent at Omosako Koi Farm. The sumi and white ground creating an almost checkerboard type reflective pattern on the superbly impressive body giving equal proportions to white and black.

Omosako Shiro Utsuri – ‘Orca’ – Photo courtesy Omosako

Development of ‘Orca’ – Photo courtesy Omosako

The 3 Shiro Utsuri below were photographed back in 2013 at Yagenji Koi Farm, all siblings, they again demonstrate different styles which Shiro Utsuri can take.

If we start with the Koi on the right hand side we very much have a Shiro Utsuri in the style of Musashi, thick heavy sumi pattern from front to back, also exhibiting a classic and often seen reflective pattern from side to side, black opposite white. The Koi on the left a much more delicate style of sumi pattern on a larger expanse of white. The middle example somewhat of a blend between the two, lots of white ground, yet the sumi forms large solid blocks.

Yagenji Nisai Shiro Utsuri

Yagenji Nisai Shiro Utsuri

As mentioned, whilst the super jumbo Shiro Utsuri may be rather the monopoly of Omosako Koi Farm presently, there are a number of other breeders whose Koi compete on a level playing field in the smaller sizes.

Marusen Kobayashi Koi Farm,
Shiro Utsuri,
3-year-old,
55cm,
Female

Kaneko Koi Farm,
Shiro Utsuri,
Female,
Nisai,
48cm

Shiro Utsuri, Bred by Kawakami Koi Farm

Listed below are some of the other farms in Japan where you can find high quality Shiro Utsuri on a regular basis.

Niigata

• Kaneko Koi Farm
• Kawakami Koi Farm
• Koshiji Koi Farm
• Marusen-Kobayashi Koi Farm
• Nishikigoi Niigata Direct
• Yagenji Koi Farm
• Yamanakaoya Koi Farm

Hiroshima

• Omosako Koi Farm
• Tamaura Koi Farm

Kyushu

• Ogata Koi Farm
• Okawa Nishikigoi Centre

GINRIN SHIRO UTSURI

Like almost all varieties, Shiro Utsuri are available in a Ginrin variant, the scales typically shining brighter on the white ground than on the sumi. Invariably when the ginrin does fall upon the sumi the depth of colour is diminished.

Ginrin Shiro Utsuri, such as the example below can be extremely imposing.

Ginrin Shiro Utsuri, Best in Variety, 2020 All Japan Koi Show

On occasion you’ll find Ginrin Shiro Utsuri such as the example below where the sumi is so strong and thick that the ginrin scales do not appear on the sumi at all creating a particular imposing contrast.

Ginrin Shiro Utsuri, Best in Variety Ginrin B, 2017 All Japan Young Koi Show

The example below won the 35bu Sakura Prize at the 2020 All Japan Koi Show. Similar to the example above, the sumi strength blocks the ginrin from showing, it appears only on the white ground. Koi of this size are of course judged in plastic bags at the All Japan Koi Show and this particular example absolutely glowed as it lined up with other Ginrin B entries. It was no surprise to see it competing for the major prize later in the day.

Ginrin Shiro Utsuri, 35bu Sakura Prize 2020 All Japan Koi Show, Bred by Okawa Koi Farm

Whilst some breeders do target production of Ginrin Shiro Utsuri specifically, many you will find are offspring of Ginrin Showa spawning. Breeders where you can typically find them include:

• Hiroi Koi Farm
• Kawakami Koi Farm
• Okawa Nishikigoi Centre
• Omosako Koi Farm
• Shinoda Koi Farm

DOITSU SHIRO UTSURI

Doitsu Shiro Utsuri are perhaps not as common as would be expected. I’m not aware of any breeder specifically breeding them, indeed they are almost always a by product of Doitsu Showa spawning. Really good examples are very unusual to find.

Below are two examples both bred by Hiroi Koi Farm who of course are also famous for producing Doitsu Showa.

The first was offered for sale as part of Ryuki Narita’s ‘R’s Collection’ in December 2015, the ￥600,000 price tag reflecting its rarity.

Doitsu Shiro Utsuri, Bred by Hiroi Koi Farm, 3 years old, 57cm (Pic Narita Koi Farm)

The second was offered at the Niigata Breeder Auction in March 2018.

Doitsu Shiro Utsuri, Hiroi Koi Farm, Nisai, 51cm, FemaleDoitsu Shiro Utsuri, Hiroi Koi Farm, Nisai, 51cm, Female

Doitsu Shiro Utsuri are often confused with Kumonryu (or perhaps it should be said the other way round), of course Kumonryu also a Doitsugoi with black and white pattern. Later we’ll look at what typically differentiates Doitsu Shiro Utsuri and Kumonryu (and likewise Hajiro/Matsukawabake from scaled Shiro Utsuri).

If you want to find one, then as suggested, Doitsu Showa breeders are your best bet with Hiroi and Shinoda being good places to look.

GIN SHIRO

Gin Shiro are the metallic version of Shiro Utsuri, a variety which seems to attract little interest from breeders and/or hobbyists compared to some of the other black and white varieties we’ll feature. To find good and large examples is unusual, as with the Doitsu Shiro Utsuri, generally a by product of Kin Showa (Metallic Showa) spawning.

As can be seen in both examples below, the first part of Ryuki Narita’s ‘R’s Collection’ in Autumn 2019, the second offered for sale in the 2019 Niigata Breeders Auction, one of typical traits of Gin Shiro is that the sumi is weak in depth. This is equally typical of the Sumi on Kin Showa. A side effect of that is that patterns lack definition and the black can appear mottled. As we’ll see later in the article, we are now seeing metallic black and white varieties like Kikokuryu and Ginga with thick black pigmentation, which perhaps makes them more attractive to hobbyists than Gin Shiro.

Gin Shiro, Bred by Sakura Nishikigoi, 53cm, 2 years old, female

Gin Shiro, Bred by Miyaishi Koi Farm, 3 years old, 47cm, female

Gin Shiro, along with Kin Showa and Kin Ki Utsuri are entered into the Hikari Utsuri show class and, commonly around the world, it’s a very undersubscribed show class.

DOITSU GIN SHIRO

Given that we’ve stated Doitsu Shiro Utsuri and Gin Shiro are both pretty rare, then it will come as no surprise that Doitsu Gin Shiro are even rarer. When this article was originally published in September 2020 I couldn’t locate a picture of a good Doitsu Gin Shiro to include with it.

In November 2020 the Koi below was included within the Niigata Breeders Auction, bred by Nishikigoi Niigata Direct.

Doitsu Gin Shiro Utsuri, Nishikigoi Niigata Direct, 3 years, 55cm, Female

KAGE SHIRO UTSURI

The final Shiro Utsuri variant for this first part of the ‘Black and White’ article, Kage Shiro Utsuri, a speciality variety of a few farms, perhaps most notably Otsuka and Hosokai, and perhaps unsurprisingly they both specialise in Asagi too.

Kage Shiro Utsuri, sometimes called Kageshiro, feature an Asagi background overlaid with a solid Shiro Utsuri sumi pattern.

Finding truly refined examples of this variety is not easy, all too often the ‘Asagi’ background is just a blurred grey without detail in the scalation. Likewise the sumi does not form deep defined utsuri pattern. In a 2015 interview in Rinko magazine Yoshikazu Otsuka stated improving the sumi quality on Kage Shiro Utsuri as being one of his main aims.

Kage Shiro Utsuri, Bred by Otsuka Koi Farm, Best in Variety 45th All Japan Koi Show

Kage Shiro Utsuri, Hosokai Koi Farm, 52cm, Nisai, Male

As we can clearly see, the simple monochromatic palette of black and white creates a wide range of looks and feelings even just within the Shiro Utsuri variants of Koi.

Original Article & Photos by Mark Gardner.  First published on Nishikigoi.life

The post Shiro Utsuri – Black and White first appeared on Cyprus Koi | Japanese Koi for sale in Cyprus.

The post Πώς πρέπει να επιλέξουμε τα koi που θά αγοράσουμε; Πόσο σημαντική είναι η χώρα προέλευσης; first appeared on Cyprus Koi | Japanese Koi for sale in Cyprus.

Γενικά ωστόσο, τα πιο πολύτιμα Koi είναι τα Kohaku, Sanke και στη συνέχεια Showa. (Για τις διάφορες ποικιλίες Koi πατήστε εδώ)

Μια νέα τιμή δημοπρασίας ρεκόρ ύψους ¥203.000.000 ( €1.545.951,75 ) τέθηκε τον Οκτώβριο του 2018 για ένα 101εκ Kohaku από το Sakai Fish Farm (SFF).

Το προηγούμενο ρεκόρ δημοπρασιών ήταν ¥41.000.000 (€344.000,00) και τέθηκε τον Οκτώβριο του 2015 για ένα 71εκ Maruten Sanke από το Sakai Fish Farm (SFF).

Πολλοί πιστεύουν ότι η τιμή ενός Koi καθορίζεται απλά από το μέγεθος του. Αυτό είναι εντελώς λάθος. Το μέγεθος είναι πιθανώς μία από τις λιγότερο σημαντικές πτυχές κατά την τιμολόγηση ενός Koi.

Τα πράγματα που καθορίζουν την τιμή ενός Koi είναι:

• Ποιότητα
• Προέλευση
• Κτηνοτρόφος
• Ποικιλία
• Ηλικία
• Αποστολή
• Γενικά έξοδα και βιο-ασφάλεια

Υπάρχουν Koi 70εκ που πωλούνται για €100 και υπάρχουν 70εκ Koi που πωλούνται για €300,000.00.

Το 2014 ένα Momotaro Nisai Showa των 57εκ  πωλήθηκε για ¥26,000,000 (€ 177,000.00)

KOI ΚΡΙΤΗΡΙΑ

Είναι δύσκολο να συνοψίσουμε τι κάνει ένα Koi πολύτιμο, αλλά το καλύτερο μέρος για να ξεκινήσετε είναι τα πρότυπα κριτικής επίδειξης Koi, καθώς αυτά θα καθορίσουν την αξία ενός Koi. Οι επιδείξης Koi είναι παρόμοιες με τις επιδείξης σκυλιών ή αλόγων. Είναι ένας διαγωνισμός όπου τα Koi θεωρούνται και κρίνοται από μια ομάδα εμπειρογνωμόνων. Νικητές επιλέγονται σε κάθε κατηγορία και στη συνέχεια με τη σειρά τους ο Μεγάλος Πρωταθλητής (Grand Champion). Όπως και σε άλλες επιδείξης, οι κριτές χρησιμοποιούν ένα πολύ συγκεκριμένο, ακόμη και άκαμπτο, σύνολο προτύπων για να κρίνουν ενα Koi.

Υπάρχουν συνήθως 3 κύριες κατηγορίες για τον προσδιορισμό της ποιότητας Koi.

1. ΣΥΜΜΟΡΦΩΣΗ ΤΟΥ ΣΩΜΑΤΟΣ (40 βαθμοί)

2. ΧΡΩΜΑ (20 βαθμοί)

3. ΣΧΕΔΙΟ (20 βαθμοί)

Η συμμόρφωση του σώματος, το χρώμα και το σχέδιο είναι αντικειμενικά στοιχεία.

Οι υπόλοιποι 20 βαθμοί απονέμονται για υποκειμενικά στοιχεία όπως η εξωστρέφεια, η αξιοπρέπεια και η κομψότητα, ακόμη και η συμπεριφορά.

ΣΥΜΜΟΡΦΩΣΗ Ή ΜΟΡΦΗ ΣΩΜΑΤΟΣ

Η υψηλή ποιότητα αρχίζει με το συνολικό σχήμα και την κατάσταση του Koi ή τη διαμόρφωση του.  Το υψηλής ποιότητας Koi δεν πρέπει να έχει ελαττώματα στο σχήμα του. Το σώμα πρέπει να είναι ισορροπημένο, συμμετρικό και τορπιλικο. Τα πτερύγια πρέπει να είναι ανάλογα με το σώμα και ομοιόμορφα.

Η συμμετρία του κεφαλιού, των ώμων, του μεσαίου τμήματος, της ουράς και των θωρακικών πτερυγίων λαμβάνεται υπόψη, καθώς και η ακεραιότητα των οφθαλμών και του στόματος. Ένα ιδανικό Koi έχει μια απόλυτα ευθεία γραμμή από το ρύγχος στην ουρά. Η κατάλληλη αναλογία πρέπει να διατηρείται μεταξύ του σώματος, της κεφαλής και των πτερυγίων. Η απόσταση μεταξύ του ραχιαίου πτερυγίου και της ουράς πρέπει να είναι 1/3 της απόστασης μεταξύ της κεφαλής και της πρώτης ακτίνας του ραχιαίου πτερυγίου. Το κεφάλι πρέπει να είναι ομαλό, χωρίς κοιλώματα ή εσοχές.

ΧΡΩΜΑ

Οι κτηνοτρόφοι και οι κριτές αναζητούν ένταση και καθαρότητα του χρώματος – είτε τα Koi είναι όλο λευκά, όλο μαύρα ή πλούσια σε σχέδια. Τα σύνορα μεταξύ των χρωμάτων πρέπει να είναι καλά επισημασμένα και διακριτά. Ο κορεσμός του χρώματος, η συνοχή του και το πόσο καλά διαχωρίζονται τα χρώματα καθορίζουν την ποιότητα του χρώματος. Χωρίς καλό χρώμα, το σχέδιο των ψαριών δεν είναι τόσο ελκυστικό και η αξία των ψαριών μειώνεται.

Το δέρμα θα πρέπει να είναι απαλλαγμένο από οποιοδήποτε ψεγάδι και να είναι λαμπερό.

Το μαύρο πρέπει να είναι σκοτεινό και να ορίζεται, σαν να ήταν βαμμένα με μια λεπτή βούρτσα.

Οι λευκές περιοχές πρέπει να είναι καθαρά μεταξένιες και απαλλαγμένες από κηλίδες.

Οι άκρες των χρωμάτων πρέπει να είναι τραγανές και να μην δείχνουν ξεθώριασμα.

Τα χρώματα που αιμορραγούν μαζί δεν είναι επιθυμητά στα περισσότερα Koi. Σε ορισμένες ποικιλίες Koi, όπως το Kohaku, οι άκρες του κόκκινου χρωματισμού υπόκεινται σε αυστηρό έλεγχο από τους κριτές.

ΣΧΕΔΙΟ

Όταν το Koi έχει μόνο ένα χρώμα, δεν μπορεί να υπάρξει μια κριτική που δίνεται για το σχέδιο, έτσι ώστε η 20 βαθμοί να εφαρμόζονται αλλού, όπως η ένταση του χρώματος.

Τα σχέδια τα οποία μπορέι να εχέι ενα Koi είναι πλούσια και ποικίλη. Οι κριτές και οι κτηνοτρόφοι αναζητούν ψάρια με αιχμηρές, ευδιάκριτες ακμές.  Όταν βλέπουμε από πάνω, το σχέδιο πρέπει να είναι ενδιαφέρον, ελκυστικό και ξεχωριστό. Το ιδανικό είναι να έχουμε το σχέδιο συμμετρικά αμφίπλευρα.

Εκτός από τις 3 κύριες κατηγορίες που αναφέρονται πιο πάνω, η τιμή επηρεάζεται επίσης σε κάποιο βαθμό από την γραμμή αίματος του Koi.

ΓΕΝΕΑΛΟΓΙΑ

Ενώ τα Koi παράγονται συχνά για το εμπόριο κατοικίδιων ζώων χωρίς ιδιαίτερη προσοχή στην επιλεκτική αναπαραγωγή, η αναπαραγωγή Koi είναι μια σοβαρή επιχείρηση για μερικούς κτηνοτρόφους που επιδιώκουν να παράγουν συγκεκριμένα χαρακτηριστικά στα ψάρια τους ή να αναπτύξουν συγκεκριμένες γραμμές αίματος. Ακριβώς όπως συμβαίνει με τα σκυλιά και τις γάτες γενεαλογικού χαρακτήρα, η κορυφαία ποιότητα Koi και Koi από επιθυμητές γενεαλογικές γραμμές κοστίζουν πολλή περισσότερο από ένα τυχαίο Koi από ένα κατάστημα κατοικίδιων ζώων που θεωρείται απλά ένα κοινό ψάρι.

ΜΕΓΕΘΟΣ ΚΟΙ

Όταν εξετάζουμε το μέγεθος ενός Koi για τον προσδιορισμό της τιμής, αυτό πρέπει να γίνει σε συνδυασμό με τις κατηγορίες κριτικής που αναφέρονται πιο πάνω αλλά και την ηλικία ενός Koi. Έχει Koi που σε ηλικία 1 έτους (tosai) είναι πάνω από 35cm και έπειτα έχει Koi 3-4 ετών στα 35cm. Εδώ σημαντικό ρόλο παίζουν τα γονίδια του Koi και το γιατί είναι σημαντικό να γνωρίζουμε από πού προέρχεται το Koi.  Για το λόγο αυτό, πιο ακριβά Koi θα έρθουν με το δικό τους πιστοποιητικό bloodline όπως τα σκυλιά γενεαλογικού χαρακτήρα.

Μεταφορικά, γενικά έξοδα και βιο-ασφάλεια

Ένας άλλος παράγοντας που επηρεάζει την τελική τιμή ενός συγκεκριμένου Koi είναι το κόστος αποστολής, τα γενικά έξοδα του αντιπροσώπου και το κόστος για τη βιο-ασφάλεια.

Το κόστος αποστολής από την Ιαπωνία στην Κύπρο είναι δαπανηρή και συχνά μια επικίνδυνη διαδικασία. Κατά μέσο όρο, το Koi θα περάσει 40 ώρες σε πλαστική σακούλα. Σε πολλές περιπτώσεις μερικά δεν επιβιώνουν από το μακρυνό ταξίδι. Το κόστος των χαμένων Koi προστίθεται συνήθως στα επιζών Koi.

Μόλις φθάσουν και αποσυσκευαστούν τα Koi, χρειάζονται τουλάχιστον 30 ημέρες σε καραντίνα. Αυτό συνεπάγεται θεραπείες θερμότητας/ψύξης και πολυάριθμες θεραπείες λόγω του άγχους του μακρού ταξιδιού. Το κόστος των θεραπειών προστίθεται στην τελική τιμή του Koi.

Επιπλέον, οι αντιπρόσωποι στην Ιαπωνία δεν πωλούν ατομικά Koi. Απαιτείται γενικά ένα ελάχιστο ποσό αποστολής. Δεδομένου ότι η Κύπρος είναι μια μικρή αγορά, ο αντιπρόσωπος πρέπει να λάβει υπόψη το κόστος διατήρησης της μεγάλης ποσότητας Koi (φαγητό, νερό, ηλεκτρισμός, θεραπείες) έως ότου πωληθούν τα Koi.

Όπως βλέπετε, όλα τα πιο πάνω προστίθενται για να καθοριστεί η τελική τιμή ενός Koi.

Αποφασίζοντας τι είδους Koi επιθυμείτε να αγοράσετε και πόσο ενδιαφέρεστε για την γενεαλογία, το χρώμα, το σχέδιο και την συνολική ποιότητα, θα καθορίση και πού θα χρειαστεί να κοιτάκσετε για να βρείτε το τέλειο Koi για εσάς.

Εάν θέλετε απλώς να αγοράσετε ένα όμορφο ψάρι σχετικά μικρού μεγέθους και νεαρής ηλικίας που θα ωριμάσει κάτω από τη φροντίδα σας, θα  το βρείτε αρκετά εύκολο σε καταστήματα κατοικίδιων ζώων με τιμές που γενικά κυμαίνονται από €2 έως €100.

Ωστόσο, εάν σκοπεύετε να κρατήσετε υψηλής ποιότητας Koi, θα χρειαστεί να βρείτε έναν καλό και αξιόπιστο αντιπρόσωπο Koi.

Στο τέλος της ημέρας παίρνετε αυτό που πληρώνετε!

The post ΠΩΣ ΚΑΘΟΡΙΖΕΤΑΙ Η ΤΙΜΗ ΕΝΟΣ KOI; first appeared on Cyprus Koi | Japanese Koi for sale in Cyprus.

Even though there are no industry recognised standards for shelf life, studies have been done and a reasonable estimate for the shelf life of dry pet foods (e.g. dog/cat kibble, fish pellets, etc) is 12-18 months, depending on the antioxidants used and storage conditions. Shelf life in the pet food industry is usually determined through chemical analysis of oxidation products, palatability testing, and olfaction.  The main cause of diminished shelf life in dry products is oxidation. This not only causes rancid odours and alters flavour reducing palatability, but also destroys essential fatty acids and the fat soluble vitamins A, D, E, and K potentially leading to malnutrition in your koi.  It is best to stick with non-expired food so as to avoid having  to supplement for the lost nutrients, reduced palatability and potentially destroying the clarity of your water.

While nutrient loss will be a certainty, the overall quality, and even safety of the food, will depend on a number of factors. There is always a risk when dealing with foods that contain high fat content (fat will go rancid over time) and/or high moisture content, which also can lead to rancidity or mould issues. Most foods that have passed the expiration date are already 1-2 years since the actual date of manufacture, add another year or two to that and you could potentially be feeding food that was manufactured 3-4 years ago. There are key nutrients such as Vitamin C that depending on the form of the vitamin used, and the amount added to the food when being manufactured, could very well be pretty much spent before you even open the bag.

As you can see, the worst case scenario of expired koi food is that it has spoiled and could be dangerous and the best case scenario is that it is not as nutritional as fresh food. Either way it isn’t really good, since even if it doesn’t kill them, it is effectively junk food with less health value than before.

In other words once koi food has passed it expiration date it is more or less junk by that point and probably better to feed your fish cardboard and paper.

For best results ALL koi food should be stored in a dark, dry, cool environment and fed within the manufacturers stated expiry date.

Now ask yourself how much if any are you truly saving?

The post Is it ok to feed my Koi expired koi food? first appeared on Cyprus Koi | Japanese Koi for sale in Cyprus.

Medication Chart

The post Koi Medications & Treatments by KUSURI first appeared on Cyprus Koi | Japanese Koi for sale in Cyprus.

A new record auction price of ¥203,000,000 (€1,545,951.75) was set in October of 2018 for a 101cm Kohaku from Sakai Fish Farm.

The previous auction record was ¥41,000,000 (€344,000.00) and was set in Ocotber of 2015 for a 71cm Maruten Sanke from Sakai Fish Farm.

In 2014 a Momotaro Nisai Showa of 57cm sold for ¥26,000,000 (€177,000.00)

SIZE OF A KOI

When looking at the size of a koi in determining price, this must be made in conjunction with the judging categories mentioned above but also the age of a koi. You have koi who at 1 year old (tosai) are over 35cm and then you have 3-4 year old koi at 35cm. This is where the bloodline or genes of the koi come in to play and why it is important to know where the koi comes from. For this reason, more expensive koi will come with their own certificate of bloodline just like pedigree dogs.

The post HOW DO YOU DETERMINE THE PRICE OF A KOI? first appeared on Cyprus Koi | Japanese Koi for sale in Cyprus.

Costia – microscope view

Costia or Ichthyobodo necator as known scientifically, is an external parasite which is active in a range of temperatures from 2°c to 29°c.

Costia is occasionally found in small numbers on the skin and gills of healthy koi without causing any harm and lives on cellular debris. The natural defences of the koi appear to keep the population reduced to an acceptable level.

Costia is a serious threat when it becomes established in large numbers and reverts to a parasitic existence. This normally happens when the koi are under stress where the koi’s defences are overwhelmed by other factors such as poor system maintenance, overcrowding, low oxygen, poor water quality or other parasitic infestation.

It is vital that good husbandry techniques are employed such as regular water changes, filter discharges and water testing.  It is also beneficial to install some form of heating to prevent temperature fluctuations.

Because it attacks the gills costia can kill quickly. Being a cold water parasite it is particularly dangerous in the spring when the immune system is weaker after the winter.

Costia has a very simple life cycle, using a process known as binary fission, meaning each parasite divides into two and is temperature dependent. It is a cold water parasite that reproduces rapidly at temperatures between 10°c & 25°c but does not apparently survive above 30°c. The life cycle is completed in 10 – 12 hours at 25°c.   At temperatures below 8°c costia encysts, reverting to trophozoites when conditions become more favourable. The trophozoites must then find a host within a short time to survive.

Identification

This koi parasite is extremely small (10-20 microns long) and a magnification of 100 times is the absolute minimum required to identify costia, 400 times is ideal. When taking a skin scrape and looking for costia, try to avoid using a thick layer of mucus and add a drop or two of pond water to the slide.

Costia is a very fast moving parasite and looks in shape similar to a comma, search the entire slide carefully but you will often find it easiest to identify this parasite along the edge of the mucus layer where this meets water.

Treatment

As costia has a short lifespan when not attached to a koi, a one off treatment will normally be sufficient to get rid of the infection.  An effective treatment is the use of malachite green and formalin at the recommended dose rate stated by the manufacturer as the rate is dependant on the concentration of the mix used.

Alternative treatments include Potassium Permanganate, Chloramine T or simply to raise the temperature to at least 30°c although this may prove stressful for the koi.

The post Costia – Koi Parasites first appeared on Cyprus Koi | Japanese Koi for sale in Cyprus.

We can’t stress enough how important it is to quarantine your new Koi purchase!

The mistake many new and inexperienced koi keepers keepers make is to place their new purchase directly into their main pond only to find a few days later problems starting to arise, most commonly, with their existing koi often leading to loss of your beloved koi.

Why is it important to quarantine new koi?

First, the quarantine process gives the newly purchased koi time to rest and recover from the stress of handling, moving and transport. The journey to its new home may have stressed the fish immensely, which can weaken its immune system. Remember that a koi with a weakened immune system is highly prone to disease and parasite attack. Quarantining new koi fish gives them time to bounce back and get back into tip-top health. And, healthy koi have a much easier time fending off parasites and bacterial infections without human intervention.

Secondly, the koi quarantine period allows the new fish to become accustomed to the water parameters of its new home and to the pathogens living there. Your new pet, being a koi fish, has already been exposed to pathogenic bacteria, because pathogenic bacteria are in every body of water that contains fish. The question isn’t IF the koi has been exposed to pathogenic bacteria, more importantly how high or how low the level of the pathogenic bacteria has been.

Lastly, another reason for quarantining new koi is its current susceptibility to disease and parasite attack, you don’t want to expose your entire collection to the issue should there be an outbreak of some sort. The segregation of all new arrivals will provide ample time for any pathogens and parasites to cycle and become apparent. In the unfortunate event that this new fish becomes ill with disease or parasites it will be much easier to deal with the situation in the contained space of a quarantine tank rather than in your entire koi pond.

The idea of a koi quarantine tank system is to provide a safe and secure place with optimum water quality to allow the new koi time to relax and recover from the ordeal of transportation to its new home; all the while providing an opportunity for the owner to keep a close eye on the fish and monitor its health before introducing the newcomer to the other pond inhabitants.

Quarantining new koi fish is a big commitment, and certainly not a simple task. If not conducted properly then you may be compounding stressors on the new fish and actually do more harm than good. You have spent hard-earned money on your koi pond and live fish, quarantine could be considered insurance for your investment. With any new fish purchase a quarantine period is highly recommended. However, if you do not have the time or patience to set up an adequate quarantine system, or don’t follow good quarantine procedures, then you might be better off releasing the new fish directly into your pond and hoping for the best!

6 Components Required For a Good Koi Quarantine Tank System

Quarantining new koi can be simple if you have the right equipment for the job. Here’s a list of the 6 most important components of a good quarantine tank system.

A complete quarantine system can be ordered from www.cykoi.com

The Quarantine Tank – Use a tank of sufficient size to hold the fish comfortably. A 500 litre tank can quarantine 4 koi of 10” size.

Tank Heater – Maintain a water temperature in the 22°-25° C range throughout the quarantine period.

Bio Filtration with Pump – Every quarantine system will need a bio filter and circulating water pump. The pump should be large enough to circulate the entire volume of the tank every 30-45 minutes. The bio filter can be a little tedious to get going; an adequate bio filter can take up to 4 weeks to become aged. To jump-start the process you can place some extra filter media in your koi pond’s filter for several weeks. Then move this into the quarantine system filter approximately two days prior to introducing new koi to the quarantine tank. Be sure to use a de-chlorinator  as any chlorine in the water will kill off the bacteria and undermine your efforts.

Aeration Device – All fish need oxygen and so does the bio filter. Keep your aeration pump running with at least one air stone on the bottom of the tank at all times. Any span without aeration is asking for trouble.

A Lid or Cover – Koi will jump in attempts to flee unfamiliar surroundings. You should have a weighted net large enough to cover the entire tank. Many koi have been lost by jumping through the smallest area left uncovered and unattended. Another option is to build a sturdy wooden frame and staple plastic mesh onto the frame. You should not use clear plastic or glass as a cover for quarantine tanks because they will increase the temperature of the water. Your cover should allow for fresh air yet protect your koi from predators.

Microscope – A Microscope is simply a must have item for any koi keeper. Prices start from around €80 so there is no excuse for any koi keeper not to have one. It is a fact for a larger percentage of koi hobbyists, they will begin the process of second guessing the problem without any real means of diagnosis, then apply shot gun medications, in an attempt to cure the problem and in many cases only make matters worse. This can be largely driven by fear of the unknown or maybe a perception by an individual that he/she, is not capable of microscopic diagnosis.  We will have a special article on Microscopes, how to use them and how to diagnose the various parasites, so stay tuned!

 

How do I seed a biological filter on the koi quarantine tank?

Koi pond filters and koi quarantine tank filters can take several weeks before they become colonized with good bacteria: aerobic bacterium Nitrobacter and Nitrosomonas. These bacteria are required to consume ammonia that is produced by the fish, reduce it to nitrite, and then to harmless nitrate. One way to jump-start your quarantine tank filter is to use some filter media from your active koi pond’s filter system. By transferring some of the filter media from your existing koi pond you will be planting seeded media into the temporary quarantine filter. This media should already be laden with live bacteria that will be needed to control ammonia in the quarantine tank water. But, it is never a good idea to return the bio media that was used in a quarantine tank back into the pond filtration system.

How long do I quarantine new koi fish?

How long to quarantine new koi is up to the owner, although 4-6 weeks is common.

What about water changes during quarantine?

Water changes are very important during the quarantine period. You need to exchange 10-15% of the total water volume twice weekly when a good bio-filter is actively working. If you do not have a bio-filter established then your quarantine tank will require a 50% water change daily. You should test the water for ammonia and nitrite daily. Both should be maintained in the range of zero-.01 ppm. And always keep plenty of chlorine remover products on hand and use accordingly with every water change.

Where should I set up the koi quarantine tank?

Spend some time to determine the ideal location for your quarantine tank. Put the quarantine tank where you will have easy access to it and preferably where it will not get too hot, or too cold. It should have access to electricity, your water source, and shade for part of every day. If it will be in your garage then use the sniff test. Close your eyes and sniff, if you can smell gasoline or paint fumes so will your fish! The aeration pump will transfer them into the water. Either store gas powered equipment, gas, oil and paint products elsewhere, or find a better location for the quarantine tank. Motor vehicle exhaust should also be considered.

How about feeding koi in a quarantine tank?

Feeding koi in the quarantine system gets very tricky. Generally, koi can go without food for two weeks, but it seems cruel to make them fast for an extended time. Over feeding in the quarantine system can bring on big troubles because bio filtration is slow to get going or very likely inadequate in most cases. High ammonia is a serious threat to your fish while under quarantine. Do not feed fish in the quarantine tank for the first two days. Then, begin by offering very small portions of food once per day. Be sure to monitor ammonia level with a test kit and stop feeding and perform a water change if the ammonia begins to creep up.

What chemicals do I use on koi during quarantine?

It is best not to use any type of chemical treatment in quarantine unless you know what and why the chemical is being administered. Salt is probably the safest and most effective additive for use in the koi quarantine tank. Salt will kill or slow down most parasites and ease the stress level for your koi. Salt concentration should be maintained at .3 ppt, or 3kg for 1000 litres of water. For therapeutic application it is recommended to use only non-iodized salt. Remember to add salt with every water change.

 

Do’s and Dont’s for Successful Koi Quarantine

Just because you have a new koi in your quarantine tank does not mean that you should start dumping chemicals on it one after another in an overzealous attempt to ‘make it healthy’. Do you have any reason to believe that the new fish is unhealthy? Have you observed its activity enough to know if the fish has symptoms indicating illness or parasite infestation? Have you preformed skin scrapes and found any parasitic activity? Quarantine should be a time of recovery and adjustment, and the opportunity for any latent pathogens to emerge. Don’t rush the quarantine process.

Do’s and Dont’s for Koi Quarantine

• Do set up your quarantine tank at least 1 week prior to new koi arrival. Establishing a bio filter can take up to 3 weeks.
• Do maintain salt at 3 ppt. (3 kg/1000 Litres) Purchase a salinity meter.
• Do use chlorine remover. Buy extra and keep it on-hand at all times.
• Do run an aerator 24/7. Any time without a bubbler can induce stress or become fatal.
• Do monitor water quality. Test for ammonia, nitrite and pH daily. Purchase a test kit or new supplies.
• Do perform regular water changes of 10-15% every day.
• Do skin scrapes on the third day of quarantine, whenever parasite activity is suspected and 3 days before the quarantine period ends.
• Do maintain water temperature between 22°-25° C. Buy a waterproof thermometer and hang it in the tank for quick reference.
• Do cover the quarantine tank to protect your koi from predators, or jumping out of the quarantine tank.
• Don’t quarantine a single fish. Koi are very social and will sulk when isolated which can increase stress.
• Don’t use chemical treatments indiscriminately. Ask a knowledgeable koi professional if you are unsure of the remedy for a problem encountered.
• Don’t use the dip or concentrated bath method to administer any treatment to new koi.
• Don’t over feed fish in quarantine. Offer food on the 3rd day of quarantine and only a small portion once a day thereafter. Quarantine is a good time to give medicated koi food.
• Don’t allow unsupervised visitors access to your quarantine tank.
• Don’t allow feces or debris to build up in the quarantine tank. Use a siphon or wet-vac to remove any accumulating debris.
• Don’t ignore the fish while in quarantine. It may be better to put the new fish directly into your pond if you are not going to monitor its health, maintain water quality, etc.

Treating koi in quarantine:

Use salt as a first step to eliminating parasites. Begin with a 0.3% level (3 KG per 1000 Litres.) and increase by 0.1% for three days to reach 0.6% salt level if needed. Keep at this rate for three days then reduce with water changes until the level is down to the 0.3%.

Chemical treatments during quarantine

Perform skin scrapes and use a microscope to check for parasites. If any are discovered then use the following products, and always follow manufacturer’s directions.

• Use Fluke M or Fluke Solve for gill fluke, skin fluke and internal worms.
• For Costia, Chilodonella and White Spot parasites treat with Malachite Green & Formalin.*
• For Trichodina treat with Potassium Permanganate. *
• Chloramine-T is a good product for the control of bacterial gill disease, body fungus and bacterial infections.*Note that salt level must be below .1% when using these products.

The post Quarantining New Koi first appeared on Cyprus Koi | Japanese Koi for sale in Cyprus.

All Japan Grand Champion 2013

The Kohaku is considered the king of Koi because this variety is believed to be the ancestor of all subsequent Koi varieties.  The beautiful red and white koi that have fascinated koi keepers since the very beginning of the hobby.

Kohaku are the undisputed main event of most koi shows and undoubtedly the most sought after of the Living Jewels. Kohaku have won the most major awards in all International Koi shows.

It is said “appreciation of koi starts and ends with Kohaku”. What that means is Kohaku was the first class to be bred consistently or stabilized in about 1890. It also means that after a person has studied all of the classes of koi and has become experienced, they will come back to appreciate Kohaku for its simplicity and beauty.

The beauty of a Kohaku lies in the purity of it’s white body and the depth and intensity of the red patterns. The edges of the red markings should be crisp and clear against an unblemished white background. This crisp edge is referred to as the “kiwa”.

Kohaku come in literally thousands of patterns with no two koi the same but some of the more recognized patterns are as follow:

• Tancho: A single red crown-like marking in the center of the head.
• Ohmoyo: Any single, large, unbroken pattern extending from head to tail.
• Nidan: A two step pattern.
• Sandan: One of the most popular, a three step pattern. (Yondan= 4 step, Godan= 5 step etc.)
• Kuchibeni: Literally “lipstick”, indicates red (beni) on the mouth.

The post Kohaku – The King of Koi first appeared on Cyprus Koi | Japanese Koi for sale in Cyprus.